Brake lights

[UK Jack]

Yeah I know, another question

Getting ready to take my 353 to its first show at the Bovington Tank Museum 3-4 September. Here is a list of jobs that needs to be done before that date;

Replace muffler......has big hole

Replace inlet and exhaust gasket.

Get the brake lights to work ..........On that note is there anything blindingly obvious that could be at fault before I have a look at the problem

Best wishes.

Jack.

[Bill_Wolf]

Jump the Brake light switch to see if you get brake lights

Make sure the Headlight switch is in the correct position. Pulled out to second click or where it should be on the toggle type.

Make sure wiring to back of switch is correct.

Check the circuit breaker on the switch.

Check for good ground at rear bracket.

Remove the connector on the back of the light and see how badly oxidized the contacts are.

Pray

Bill

[robc]

If you trace the fault to the switch, a way round replacing the hydraulic switch, is to fit a mechanical pull switch, available from motor bike shops, I done this over 10 years ago on my cargo/dump CCKW, never a problem since.
If you remove your exhaust/inlet manifold, just check to see faces are not warped and ensure guide rings are fiited to the inlet side.
Good Luck.

[dr deuce]

I have a mecahnical automotive brake light switch on 4.5 of my HMVs like all moder vehicles have so that the minute you put your foot on the brake pedal, the brake lights come one to give the person behind you the most warning possible.

The manufacturer is Standard and there are 2 part numbers: SLS40 and SLS 43 The difference is the way the mounting bracket is folded, right or left. It makes no difference.

You mount this to the bottom of the toeboard with the lever between the brake pedal arm and the toeboard. As you step on the brake pedal, it follows the pedal and turns on the brake lights. I said .5 because the crane has one on the passengers side to short out the ignition resistor when startting. Again, it follows the linkage, in this case the starter linkage. (This is for 12 volt applications)

Think safety! You may only have one small brake light and you need a fair mount of pressure to get a pressure switch to activate which when ahead of the booster creates quite a bit of braking....

Steve AKA Dr Deuce

[Degsy]

Hi Jack
Don't take your manifold off unless you really have to,they tend to distort and then need to be skimmed to level them up.There is a limit to how much you can take off and it might still not be level.If you do take it off use a copper/asbestos gasket and if it still does not seal you may need to cut up a second gasket and use bits to get a seal. If you skim the manifold dont forget to also trim the mounting rings fitted in the inlets.


Cheers
Degsy

[armydriver]

Thanks for the info Doc.

[UK Jack]

Hi guys.

Looks like I have a duff brake light a switch as I have power to it but not from it. I have tested the circuit and everything works just fine so it look like I have to replace the switch.

As I haven't yet got my manual I just wanted to double check if the switch also acts as a sump plug for the brake oil ?

Cheers.

Jack