The GMC CCKW

This Friday, I am going to go and look at a 1941 closed cab CCKW. What are the common things to look at? the guy is asking $500 and I understand it is in good condition. I understand it had a shop body on it but I don't know for sure.

Nick I have a 42 closed cab and can give you some thoughts, but there are guys on here that have forgotten more than I will ever know about CCKW's. Based on my very limited knowledge. If the truck runs and stops. If the truck is generally in good condition wear and rust wise I don't think you could ever go wrong for $500.00. What bed , if any does it have? The trucks , especially closed cabs seem to be reasonably common. It seems to be the correct beds that are getting really hard to find, and then if and when you do, the costs of getting them to you. I can not believe that all the beds were taken off of these trucks and junked....what good is the truck without a bed????? If it has a winch that is a big plus in my book. Here is a couple of websights of trucks that had shop bodies on them and now have other beds. Notice the different gas tank from the cargo trucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... eName=WDVW

http://cckw.mypicgallery.com/

Wait until guys like Joel and Steve weigh in they are the experts!!!

check steering: move wheel back and forth w/o force in the dead zone to see how much play there is. Have someone do this while you watch the pitman arm, make sure it is not going up and down or in and out, watch the tie rod to make sure it is not loose on either end

Check the clutch; it should have alot of free play in it. If not, either it was adjusted wrong (bad for pressure plate spring) or the disk is worn out.

Move pedals side to side by hand to check the pedal bushings

Check the shifter for movement when in gear could have ball and/or pins worn

Look at lower cab corners under fenders, They love to rot out there. If the rot is near the fendermounting, the repair gets more difficult.

Look at the mid-cab beltline in the back of the cab. These cabs rot out there and are tougher to fix. If it is rotted thru here I usually believe it needs a new cab, but for $500... Check the windshiled frame for rot inside and out. Check the cab floor, not the removeable/replaceable part expecially by the front of the doors for rot. Check the bottom of the doors outside for rot thru.

Put your hip on the side of the front bimper and repeatedly push the truck sideways. Get it moving back and forth in a rhymic motion. While doing this, place your hand on the fron spring shackle so that you can feel the frame mounted piece and the shackle, then do the shackle and the spring. You are trying to feel motion (worn bushings)

Look at the engine manifold where it meets the head. look for white or black or rusted areas that indicate the manifold gasket has failed on that port. Wiggle the fan to check the pump for looseness.

Put your hand over the driveshaft and U-joint simultaneously so that when you turn it, you can feel for looseness in the u-joint.

Check the pinion for up and down looseness, especially on splits. Check for loose u-joint flanges at all places.

Look for leaks all over especially major ones. Check the area where the splits bolt together at the bottom for leaks.

Check the torque rods if they are rubber bushed to see that rubber ie there and not all weather cracked and that the bolt is in the center of the rod.

And this is just a starter! Don't worry about things like wiring as you should replace that anyways or the brake lines.

If the truck looks like it has had a hard life, it probably did!


Steve

If it is drivable , that is runs and you can go through all of the gears without any problems then buy it; If the brakes work then you are even better off, but those are among the easier things to fix.
If it has the shop body, then it is a desirable body configuration.
By all means buy the truck.

The stuff the Dr mentioned should be expected on a $500.00 truck, not many trucks used by civilians were ever put on a scheduled maint program.If it was a van body type the fram aft of the cab will have special reinforcement on the bottom specificic to the Van type and Air Comp. type truck.
Joel

Nick,

For $500 you can't go wrong if the truck is anything like complete.don't worry about front sheet metal,stuff like hood,fenders and engine side panels can be found.as Dr Duece said check the rear of the cab.I would also check the frame for signs of it having been cut,welded or shortened.

If a 41 CCKW was for sale here in the UK with no rear body but a sound cab you could expect to pay £1000+ for it.

If I were you I'd buy it.as long as you have somwhere to keep it and getting it home isn't going to cost a fortune,you can keep it and just look for the missing parts over time.I've owned my GMC for five years and only now am I getting my head around restoration,it will take me another five years to finish it but once finished I know it will be right!

Look for early features,civvy style dash,ash tray in cab,no BO drive light,ledded cab seams.if you can get the frame number post it here,if the truck is a 41 it's probably a CCKWX.

Good luck!!

Thank you all for all of the replies. I am making a checklist form all of the advice and I will check it all. I also need to make sure that it can fit underneath my carport in my backyard, otherwise, I have no place to store it and I won't be able to buy it. Either way, I am going to take plenty of photos and I'll try to get the serial number so that it can be put into the database on this website.

Well,
I went out there and the truck was not there. Somebody took the truck without the owner's permission. He is going to try and find the truck but the radio body was there. When I was driving out to look at the truck, I noticed a cckw out in a field. I asked the owner if I could look at it and I noticed another one sitting next to it. I took photos of them all. The white cckw has an engine and transmission on the back and a hood, grill, doors, and several other parts. Sitting on the ground next to it is the transfer case and drive shafts. These are from another truck which is no longer there. There are also about 10 or 11 rims as extras. I don't know if the guy will sell. According to the guy that watchs over the place (he's not the owner), the white truck runs and drives.

When I got out to the place that the $500 cckw was supposed to be, I found the radio body and two Ford 1 1/2 ton "Burma jeeps". They are for sale also. Everything has to go because the ranch was sold. I believe that they are also $500 a truck.

http://www.tacticalblunder.com/g503/sho ... hp?cat=734

Hi Nick,

Wish I could find a field like that here if I were in your shoes I'd try to get the white truck,some parts from the rusty one and the radio body.at $500 each the GTB's are cheep too.

If you can't take on the trucks do try to find a collector who will,the radio bodies are rare!

Matt.

Nick I would love to see pictures of the radio body as that was what was origionally on my 1942. If it is in any kind of shape at all I would be interested.

rgus,
The radio body is in worse shape than it looks. All of the plywood inside will need to be replaced and extensive sheet metal work needs to be done. Where are you located? THe seller just wants everything to go. I don't know how much he wants for the radio body because it was supposed to go with the truck for $500 but the truck was not there.

It looks good but like you said looks can be deceiving. It may not be worth the costs of the haul bill half way across the country. I just hate to see any piece disappear. I am in Indiana

rgus wrote: It may not be worth the costs of the haul bill half way across the country....I am in Indiana

On another post Mr.Farber indicated that you could find a scheduled long haul for reasonable money. he might be able to help you find some reasonable shipping. Cetrainly 2 would fit on one TT trailer.

GTB's are pretty cool and desireable because of their size. I have seen a couple of the bomb hoists for sale for them so removing the dump body and putting on a hoist could be possible.

Bill

I will guarantee that if you buy a GTB that needs Bows, Windshield, Carburetor, Passenger Jump seat, Steering Gear, Steering Wheel, Fuel tank, etc., you will celebrate a few birthdays befor you find these parts, if ever. I have a good supply of NOS Distributors, and Wiper Motors sealed in boxes. FREE TIP- the wheel studs are same as DODGE M-37, and 3/4 T WC. I bet none of you knew that until now.
Joel

I don't know if the GTB's are actually worth restoring. The frames where extended, the engines are non-original, and several other things wrong. They would however be good for parts though.

Other than electrical system, wheels/tires(750X20) and pintle hook there is very little in common with any other WWII MVs.
Joel