I went to get my ebay fire truck over the weekend. The two guys who were going to go with me had to bail at the last minute. So 6 bottles of 5-Hour Energy Drink got me through the 39 hours of driving. I was a little punchy by the end but made it just fine. I left my pickup and trailer on the street when I stumbled in. This morning I undid the straps, fired it up on the first try, and drove it off the trailer. It is a really sweet truck.
A few things that the ebay pics didn't show were:
1. The wood steering wheel is separating at the finger joint.
2. One of the tires is completely shot.
3. The pintle is missing but the rear frame is complete.
4. The "leak" in the brake system is probably related to the hose disconnected from the hydrovac.
Very minor surprises from an Ebay buy.
My daughter, our dog, and I took it for a spin around the neighborhood. It ran without any hiccups at all. My daughter, who is 13, convinced me to let her give it a try. She managed to reverse it, then shift it into second for a quick drive down the road. I think in it's 65 year history, it may be the first time the driver was driving wearing pink flip-flops.
All in all, it seems to be a good runner and the red paint seems to come off fairly easily. The batteries are standard 12v so it has probably been converted to 12 volt.
I guess I will learn more as I go over it.
What are the first things a new CCKW owner should be looking at?
Any suggestions on what to do with the steering wheel?
Neil
Neil
Ebay Fire truck initial impressions.
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You asked Neil
Here's the short list
Get a set of manuals from Portrayal Press
If you plan to "run her" for a while before a resto
Change ALL the fluids,( GO Brake Oil Coolant) as well any rubber hoses ( including the little one under the water pump )
Don't forget the fan belt either
A good thorough grease job( there are a ton of fittings)
Check,adjust or pack the wheel bearings,
Drive shafts/U joints and the pillow block( it also has fluid in it )
Check the seals or you will ruin the brake shoes,
Adjust and bleed the brakes
Check for rust on the lines themselves,
Tire pressures
Inspect for wear ALL the front end components tighten or replace as needed,
Make sure charging system is charging and battery is up
Drain and clean fuel bowl in the carb, Do the same for the fuel filter,and certainly check the tank for rust and foreign debris.
A tune up ,plugs ,points, condenser
Set the timing
Check for anything loose ( they vibrate alot )
Have you got the manuals yet
There's a weekend worth of stuff right here
Next weekend you can fix the steering wheel
Try a good 2 part wood glue and a web clamp
Hope this helps
John
Here's the short list
Get a set of manuals from Portrayal Press
If you plan to "run her" for a while before a resto
Change ALL the fluids,( GO Brake Oil Coolant) as well any rubber hoses ( including the little one under the water pump )
Don't forget the fan belt either
A good thorough grease job( there are a ton of fittings)
Check,adjust or pack the wheel bearings,
Drive shafts/U joints and the pillow block( it also has fluid in it )
Check the seals or you will ruin the brake shoes,
Adjust and bleed the brakes
Check for rust on the lines themselves,
Tire pressures
Inspect for wear ALL the front end components tighten or replace as needed,
Make sure charging system is charging and battery is up
Drain and clean fuel bowl in the carb, Do the same for the fuel filter,and certainly check the tank for rust and foreign debris.
A tune up ,plugs ,points, condenser
Set the timing
Check for anything loose ( they vibrate alot )
Have you got the manuals yet
There's a weekend worth of stuff right here
Next weekend you can fix the steering wheel
Try a good 2 part wood glue and a web clamp
Hope this helps
John
42 Chevy G7117
44 Ford M20 armored car
44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker
45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portable
Ben Hur 1 ton trailer
MVPA#26900
44 Ford M20 armored car
44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker
45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portable
Ben Hur 1 ton trailer
MVPA#26900
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do you have any records that show when the brakes have been serviced?
if the brake fluid is scungy or the brake rubber hoses look old
then u will probably need to OH the system.
this is tedious because it means the following:
all new seals
re-sleeved cylinders (probably)
all new rubber hoses
replace steel lines (they have a special malleable alloy to make them).. yes 65 yr old steel lines burst with corrosive BF inside and moisture outside
OH master cyl (easy)
OH or replace hydrovac (can be problematical)
check each brake drum for tolerance...u might get lucky like me...all 6 were in spec...they are apparently hard to find and expensive
check each lining for spec...i believe they can be re-lined by good brake shops
while u r doing all this u will probably find Gear Oil has leaked into at least one drum, so oil seals must be replaced cause GO will wreck yr brake linings
the fronts are notorious for leaking GO
the rears dont seem to have a very good seal either...are the tryres showing any fluid leakage on their insides?
i dont think i am paranoid, but they are single circuit brakes..1 leak = no brakes..no seatbelts, 5 tons etc...does not bear thinking about
had brake failure on a vintage car once, due to the failure of a rubber hose( was going uphill, so lucky)
i did see some pics ( i think) and it seems like a great truck
may have been properly serviced if u r real lucky
if the brake fluid is scungy or the brake rubber hoses look old
then u will probably need to OH the system.
this is tedious because it means the following:
all new seals
re-sleeved cylinders (probably)
all new rubber hoses
replace steel lines (they have a special malleable alloy to make them).. yes 65 yr old steel lines burst with corrosive BF inside and moisture outside
OH master cyl (easy)
OH or replace hydrovac (can be problematical)
check each brake drum for tolerance...u might get lucky like me...all 6 were in spec...they are apparently hard to find and expensive
check each lining for spec...i believe they can be re-lined by good brake shops
while u r doing all this u will probably find Gear Oil has leaked into at least one drum, so oil seals must be replaced cause GO will wreck yr brake linings
the fronts are notorious for leaking GO
the rears dont seem to have a very good seal either...are the tryres showing any fluid leakage on their insides?
i dont think i am paranoid, but they are single circuit brakes..1 leak = no brakes..no seatbelts, 5 tons etc...does not bear thinking about
had brake failure on a vintage car once, due to the failure of a rubber hose( was going uphill, so lucky)
i did see some pics ( i think) and it seems like a great truck
may have been properly serviced if u r real lucky
CCKW 353 w/winch
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I found the source of the brake leak. The hose to the passenger side front wheel has been cut off at both ends. The steel lines look good. I havent had the wheels off yet. Where can I get the rubber hoses? Only one other one looks rusty at one end.
While I was under the truck I found a data plate on the front axle stating it had been rebuilt in '53.
I checked the various fluids and they seem to be full and fairly clean. The filters looked clean too. There is a new alternator, belt, and various copper lines look like they have been replaced recently. It looks like this truck has been looked after. Probably by bored firemen over the years. From what I understand, the truck spent most of its' post war life in a fire hall. It was sold when the fire department got a second truck. (It was a rural fire department)
Neil
While I was under the truck I found a data plate on the front axle stating it had been rebuilt in '53.
I checked the various fluids and they seem to be full and fairly clean. The filters looked clean too. There is a new alternator, belt, and various copper lines look like they have been replaced recently. It looks like this truck has been looked after. Probably by bored firemen over the years. From what I understand, the truck spent most of its' post war life in a fire hall. It was sold when the fire department got a second truck. (It was a rural fire department)
Neil
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There's more at the rear ( they usually dry rot ) CHANGE them ,Joel Gopan might have some so does Frank von Rosensteil, and D.Yamulla may have some also
Same goes for fluids Engine oil should be changed at least once a year even with little use.
Brake fluid should be changed every 3 years at the VERY MOST I prefer 2 years.
Drain your gear oil and replace . How else are you going to know if there is water in there? The oil will float on top. Or worst still parts and fileings may have accumulated in bottom of the case.
Cheers
John
Same goes for fluids Engine oil should be changed at least once a year even with little use.
Brake fluid should be changed every 3 years at the VERY MOST I prefer 2 years.
Drain your gear oil and replace . How else are you going to know if there is water in there? The oil will float on top. Or worst still parts and fileings may have accumulated in bottom of the case.
Cheers
John
42 Chevy G7117
44 Ford M20 armored car
44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker
45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portable
Ben Hur 1 ton trailer
MVPA#26900
44 Ford M20 armored car
44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker
45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portable
Ben Hur 1 ton trailer
MVPA#26900
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- Captain
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A good auto parts store can get you the brake hoses. That is where I get mine. Beware of NOS one. A 60 year old NOS hose is still 60 years old. Go with fresh. Master cylinder same as M35. Rear wheel cylinders same as 41-46 civy chevy 1.5 ton
Replace all the rear brake return springs and the front ones (same type) if it banjo axle. Jim Carter has them. Same as 41-46 civy Chev 1.5 ton truck. Keep the best looking one under the seat for a spare.
Replace all the rear brake return springs and the front ones (same type) if it banjo axle. Jim Carter has them. Same as 41-46 civy Chev 1.5 ton truck. Keep the best looking one under the seat for a spare.
Dr Deuce Over 50,000 driven miles in a CCKW
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
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Hi Spookydad,
I agree with dr duece; you can get a number of parts for your truck at a good auto parts store. Get the ORD 9 manuel, you can give them the GM # and they will cross reference to their parts. At my local NAPA store I got the brake hoses, points, codenser, rotor, spark plugs, coil, ignition wire set, numerous gaskets, fuel hoses, fuel pump, etc. to name a few. I always check with them first and then if they can't get the part I go with Frank CCKW, Peter debella etc. Good luck with your truck and happy motoring!
I agree with dr duece; you can get a number of parts for your truck at a good auto parts store. Get the ORD 9 manuel, you can give them the GM # and they will cross reference to their parts. At my local NAPA store I got the brake hoses, points, codenser, rotor, spark plugs, coil, ignition wire set, numerous gaskets, fuel hoses, fuel pump, etc. to name a few. I always check with them first and then if they can't get the part I go with Frank CCKW, Peter debella etc. Good luck with your truck and happy motoring!
1944 GMC CCKW 353, 1943 BEN-HUR Trailer
1943 WC-52, 1944 WC-54 (dod 4/19/44), 1945 Willys MB,
4/44 Bantam T3, MVPA 12610, NRA life Member
1943 WC-52, 1944 WC-54 (dod 4/19/44), 1945 Willys MB,
4/44 Bantam T3, MVPA 12610, NRA life Member