Screws fitted to closed cab.

[robc]

I have a CCKW with a closed cab, truck was overhauled in Germany around the 50's, the screws that secure the door hinges are not the standard cross head but have a strange slot with a hole either end, best as I can describe, smaller screws of the same type are used on the dash, have also seen them on other closed cab CCKW's, anyone out there aware of these?, is there a special tool to install/remove?.
Thanks in advance.

[joel gopan]

I assume you are describing "Clutch Head" Screws, they require a "Clutch Head "Screwdriver, and come in numbered sizes, and may still be available thru Sears Roebucks Craftsman brand tools, and certainly Snap-On. I can check my local Industrial Supplier, they sell several brands, including Craftsman. The Clutch Head Screws are available thru suppliers in Hemmings. Clutch Head Screws were common on GM Products in 30s-40s, especially Chevrolet, and are not a hardware store item. I suggest that you purchase a set in order to have the proper driver for any size you may encounter. It appears that the Depot had a supply of G-506 Chev 4X4 screws and used them in the rebuild of your cab. You may have a G506 Chevrolet Cab, it is easy to ID, as it has a relief on the Lower Right Rear Corner behind the Running Board for the Fuel Filter that was located on the Chassis on the 4X4 Chevrolet.
Joel

[Bill_Wolf]

Do a Google on Clutch head screws. Lots of inexpensive results.

I bought some in the driver bit style and have a set of the 3 popular sizes in one of those racheting craftsman screwdrivers that has the storage in the
handle. The additional bits store nicely in the handle.

I put one of these setups in each glovebox of each truck. It comes in handy. Item # is 41466.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 0941466000

Bill

[bobc]

One of the closed cabs I parted out had those screws,they were a pain in the neck,it was tough to get them out without stripping them,I had a craftman set of driver bits that had all the sizes but there just isn't enough meat for the bit to catch on and the hole isn't very deep,the cab with the regular phillips came apart much easier. I was wondering why the different screws were used,both cabs I parted out were 43 one had regular screw and the other was clutch head,my 40 has clutch head also.

[joel gopan]

562000 CCKWs were produced, and it is obvious that there must have been more than one source or line for cabs, there were variations to cabs and trim as the war progressed, and the addition/deletion of clutch head screws must have been part of the progression. There are few, clutch head screws mentioned in the 10 Series and SNL CCKW Parts manuals, they are listed more so in the Chevrolet parts books. I have seen both Clutch Head and Phillips round head wood screws used to attach the spacer blocks in the CCKW Battery Box Covers. I wouldn't lose much sleep over it, as there is no way to prove when they were used without Production Line drawings, and their changes.
Joel

[retro-roco]

My truck is a Chevy 1-1/2 ton, and as Joel indicated, my cab interior, and much of the front clip was assembled using clutch heads. I stripped a few of them, and ruined a driver bit in the process before I stumbled upon an ALMOST fool-proof method for removing them. The trick is to try turning the screw out, and if more than slight resistance is felt, to stop. Get out your propane torch, or even one of those little "micro-torches", and heat the screw head up until it is red-hot. Immediately grab your driver, and instead of trying to turn it out, turn it in a partial turn. By partial turn, I mean less than an eighth of a turn... then immediately reverse it and the screw should come right out.

If it still won't turn, but moved a little bit, hit it with some Kroil or PB Blaster and let it soak for a while. If it didn't move at all, heat it up red-hot again, and repeat the process. If still no luck (I only had one not come out after the first or second heatings), then you will likely have to drill the screw out.

I used a slightly oversized bit (slightly larger that the diameter of the threads), and drilled off the head. The heatings removed the temper from the screw and made drilling easier. This allowed me to dis-assemble the piece, and I was able to lock onto the remaining threads with a vise-grip pliers, and backed the screw out that way. I didn't even have to drill and re-tap the hole!

Good luck with your screws...

[robc]

Many thanks for your help, been in the motor trade for over 30 years, have never seen them before, will now start the process of finding the tools to remove them, much prefer crosshead type, if I can find them in the U.K.

[bobc]

When I was disassembling the cab with the clutch head I tried the right tool first but if it looked like it wasn't going to come out,or I already stripped the hole I would take a hack saw and cut a new groove in the head and with a good screwdriver I could almost always get them out.

[dr deuce]

I use his process ALL the time with clutchhead screws. Get em hot and move them a little back and forth so you don't bugger up the head.

retro-roco
Private First Class

The door hinges are a particluarly bad scene. The red hot has limited application in my experience with them. Unless there is some real need to take them off. leave em... You will then me in the morning!

Steve AKA Dr Deuce

PS: I will have to check. I don't recall ever seeing a CCKW with the small (dash) clutch head screws. I have from 42 to 45's