Distributors

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Fri Feb 01, 2008 5:00 pm

Can any one out there give me an opinion on my distributor which is fitted to my CCKW352 270 engine, the casing is ally ? I cant move it and want to re time the ignition !!!!!!!!!!
Should the distributor be steel ?
Are there different types that were fitted and did the total centrifugal advance amount differ from one to another???????

snow man · Post by **snow man** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:15 pm

Did you loosen the bolt under the distributor that holds it to the block ? see if you can post a pic .

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 5:06 pm

Yes I have loosened the bolt which bolts the clamp down to the block and also loosened the clamp round the distributor as well, I think because it is ally and engine block is steel they have corroded together, suspect I will have to smash it out

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:08 pm

Update to this situation, I have been soaking the dizzy in freeing oil for the last few weeks and yesterday was the day it was going to come out or get smashed out, with some constant tapping with a large hammer out it came in one piece, so all I need to do now is put the new Delco Reamy dizzy in, tried for a while but could not line up the oil pump drive as the dizzy goes in it turns to mesh with the camshaft gear and the will not engage with the slot in the oil pump !!!!!!!
Is there an easy way to do this or am I missing something..

snow man · Post by **snow man** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:40 pm

Don't rotate the motor and be aware of where the rotor button is and put the new distributer back in like the old one come out , if you were not sure the timing was right on the old distributer go buy the TM it is not hard to check.

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:12 pm

Yep do know the ins and outs of timing, about getting the No1 cylinder at TDC with both valves closed and then the rotor arm of dizzy should point to No1 spark plug lead on the cap, the trouble I am having is as you put in the dizzy in to the block it turns to engage with the camshaft gear and in this turning it then does not line up with the slot for the oil pump drive, I have tried it several ways but to no success don't understand what's going on, I have done this loads of times on other vehicles and after a couple of attempts it goes in, but this will not do it, its now getting cold outside and starting to rain so given up for today.

snow man · Post by **snow man** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 2:42 pm

You may have to turn the engine with a socket wrench as you put a little down pressure on the dizzy after the gears come together. I have also used a long screw driver and turned the oil pump shaft to get things lined up .

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:27 pm

Have tried this but with no success, the next thing I was going to try was to get a friend of mine to crank the engine by the starter and while the engine is cranking apply some pressure to the dizzy and hopefully with the drag of the oil pump trying to build pressure it will drop in to the slot ??

snow man · Post by **snow man** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:06 pm

I would go a little slower , have your friend turn it over with a wrench on the front crankshaft { remember } it is only a 1/2 a turn off looking at the rotor button , also clean the dizzy and the hole out with a little fine sandpaper . The oil pump will not build pressure until you get it mated up to the dizzy the cam turns the dizzy and it turns the oil pump .

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 4:25 pm

Ok point noted, will see what happens when I have another go at it tomorrow or the day after..

Thanks for the advice

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:05 pm

Success today, I was trying to put it too far in to the engine, once I measured how deep the oil pump drive was and how far that related to the new dizzy shaft I found out that I had the end drive in the oil pump

so once the plug leads were all in and points gap set it was time to get it timed, with a bit of turning of the dizzy I got it running and once warm timed it up, now it idles much steadier than with the old one, top bush in the old one allowed the shaft to move sideways and also there was slackness in the centrifugal weights so a good move to change it.

Chappers · Post by **Chappers** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:04 pm

If I was you I would install electronic ignition,You will have much better starting and no points to burn out or adjust.
I did both mine a year ago and they start on the button,checked the timing a couple of weeks ago and still spot on.

Regards

Steve

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:23 pm

>If I was you I would install electronic ignition,You will have much better starting and no points to burn out or adjust. <

Whose ignition did you install?

Are you running 6v or 12v?

R Cubed · Post by **R Cubed** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:32 pm

Chappers wrote:If I was you I would install electronic ignition,You will have much better starting and no points to burn out or adjust.
I did both mine a year ago and they start on the button,checked the timing a couple of weeks ago and still spot on.

Regards

Steve

The only argument I have with the electronic route although sounds good is its not original and expensive for only a little benefit, if it plays up you put the old stuff back in to get you home !!!! With the old points system provided you maintain the points gap and condition the only thing to fail is the condenser and if you carry a good new one you have no problems...
Now having gone to 12volts for lighting reasons mainly, I have never had a problem starting it, couple of cranks and away it goes.